This morning we awoke to the sounds of hundreds (?) of M-80s and other firecrackers/firebombs exploding in the neighborhood. If I didn't know this 7 AM wake-up call was supposed to happen, I would have thought something was seriously wrong and Valencia was being attacked. But all was well and the explosions echoing in the park and courtyard behind our apartment were intentional. They were simply the Valencian way of signalling the offical start of Fallas week.
The initial barrage lasted about 20 minutes - 20 constant minutes of cannon-ball like sounds amplified by the open plazas around our apartment surrounded by close buildings. After the first 30 minutes, explosions would burst again, periodically. And then, as if everyone had finished refueling, the continuous blasts would begin again. And continue off and on throughout the day, although not with the same intensity as at 7 AM this morning. I believe this will be our wake-up call every day this week until Fallas is over on the 19th. Ah...Fallas.
The increasing intensity of the firecrackers is just a reminder that Fallas is really kicking in and coming to an end this week. Someone tonight mentioned that it's a bit like the mascleta. In the beginning, there are periodic booms that slowly intensify and increase to finally reach a crescendo of crazy activity. And then it's all over and cleaned up as if nothing has happened. Right now were are almost at the crescendo.
Besides the firecrackers, from the apartment we would occasionally hear the sound of a small marching band playing traditional Valencian/Fallas music. The girls and I would run to the balcony in time to see a group of falleraas/falleros walking down the street with the band in what seemed to be some kind of parade just for their Fallas. I found out later, they were probably marching to their Fallas monument to set off their own mascleta after the huge one at City Hall. Sure enough as soon as the main mascleta was over, we could hear mascleta in other neighborhoods exploding simultaneously. It must be spring in Valencia - either Spring or Fallas.
The girls and I didn't venture out today mostly because I was too rattled by all the explosions and didn't feel like dodging possible firecracker parks, plazas, parking places, sidewalks etc. Really, any place with a surface to throw on is fair game. Sometimes, people are considerate of not throwing anything when they see you walking with a stroller. But for the most part, it seems that people think that firecrackers are just a normal part of life at this time and even the kids can handle it.
But the main we reason we didn't get out today was because we were going to a Fallas paella party that wasn't really starting until 9 PM, with the paella not scheduled to be ready until around 11:30 or so. With that schedule in mind, I was trying to get the girls and myself to rest up as much as possible. Luckily, we were able to relax and even nap a bit before heading out for our evening's adventure.
The paella party...it seems that every neighborhood Fallas was having a party tonight. And indeed they were. On our way to the paella party Ana and Luis invited us to attend, we passed many other parties. The city was alive with locals and tourists celebrating. But the paella parties - these seemed to be for the locals, for the people of each neighborhood's Fallas. Each party had their own entertainment, food, drinks. And each one had set up a wood-burning fire or two or three right in the street (blocked off to traffic) where pans of paella bubbled and meat sizzled. I suppose everyone was celebrating the successful planta of their Fallas monuments and all the hard work that went into it. Or perhaps they were celebrating because that's what you do on the Monday of Fallas week.
The party was a great glimpse into the Fallas and Spanish culture really. Celebrations and food are important and luckily we were able to take part in both tonight - all in the shadows of a Fallas sculpture. I watched a paella in the making and learned the best place to buy a pan (wherever you buy nuts and bolts and other things made of steel - a ferreteria (sp?)). We got to meet the mother of a Fallas court member - much to Miia's delight. And like most mothers, she kept offering us food (spanish tortillas, grilled meats, pastries - all good). The only difference is she was walking around with the fallera hair - the Princess Leia-like hair. I drank a fantastic, homemade sangria. I think we were lucky to be able to attend as crashing a paella party doesn't seem possible.
Our night ended with a bus detour (all the bus routes are a bit re-routed because of Fallas events) and a walk home. On the way at about 1:30 AM, we were able to catch the nightly fireworks show between the Exposicion and Flores bridges. Impressive display...but crazy crowd. Let's just say...drunk kids and firecrackers are not a good combination. We finally made it home at about 2 AM or so and unable to sleep, I'm blogging to you about our evening.
Tomorrow's main Fallas event will be the Offrendra - the religious aspect of the festival. Thousands of Valencians will dress in traditional costumes and parade down the main streets of Valencia (traffic and bus route nightmare) carrying flowers which they will bring to a giant Virgin Mary structure near the Cathedral. The flowers will be placed into the structure, creating a dress for the "statue" which stands about 2 or 3 stories tall. I think this (the parade, the structure) will be a sight to behold. I'm anticipating huge crowds for this, so we'll see how close we can get.
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